Surge Brakes

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Surge Brakes
Surge Brakes
Surge Brakes
December 15, 2017 5:50 pm EST
Location: 33.436N 77.743W
Wind Dir: W (260°)
Wind Speed: 17 knots
Wind Gust: 21 knots
Sig Wave Height: 5 ft
Dom Wave Period: 5 sec
Average Period: 4.4 sec
Mean Wave Dir: SW (224°)
AT Ps: 29.95 in (1014.3 mb)
Air Temp: 62°F (16.6°C)
Dew Point: 47°F (8.6°C)
Water Temp: 67°F (19.6°C)

Surge Brakes
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Surge Brakes
 
 
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Chad45
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 29, 2017 9:11 am    Post subject: Surge Brakes Reply with quote

I have a boat trailer setup that came with Surge Brakes. I mostly fish fresh water but on occasion take the boat to the beach. Twice since I've owned the boat after going to the beach and heading home I've had the drum brakes become stuck and overheat my wheel bearings. Both times I've had to replace all the brake hardware and wheel bearings which cost a lot. Each time before leaving for my trip home and after every-fishing trip while I was down there I would spray the wheels off vigorously and wash down the boat. Outside of taking the brake cover off each time, I'm not sure what I could have done to prevent them from sticking. Once it happened on the way home, the second time it happened about a month later when I was towing it to Lake James... Both times I sprayed the heck out of them and made sure they had plenty of grease in the bearing buddies.

I'm headed down to do some fishing in October and am debating on whether or not to disconnect the brakes completely since I don't think the provide much stopping power to begin with and have been nothing but a headache since I've owned the boat. I'm hoping this will prevent them from sticking and burning everything up for the third time....Does anyone have any advice on this either way? Is it a bad idea to disconnect the brakes, or am I better off just doing without them.

If you think I should definitely NOT disconnect them, is there anyway I can keep them clean (take off brake cover maybe when cleaning?). I'm almost to the point of just getting rid of the trailer all together.

Thanks for any help you can give.
  
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PL240
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Joined: Aug 15, 2017
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Location: S.W. Ga/St James Island Fl

PostPosted: Tue Aug 29, 2017 9:51 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Boat size and weight. What are you towing it with?  
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Chad45
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 29, 2017 10:05 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Boat weighs 1730 including engine. Towing with a 2016 tundra.The last time they started sticking it actually took me a while to feel it as I was coming down a lot of hills from lake James to Charlotte. Hard to notice it sometimes since the package is so light.  
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Chad45
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 29, 2017 10:09 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just checked the specs and the entire package is approx 3400lbs, if that helps.

Thanks again
  
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BarryTurano
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 29, 2017 10:44 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Keeping the brakes would be a help. I would keep a pump sprayer with you full of water and Salt Away. I would spray the brakes and hubs as soon as the trailer gets out of the water. So as soon as the empty trailer gets off the ramp when putting in and as soon as the trailer leaves the water coming out. Don't be afraid to spray it you will not hurt anything. You want to get ALL of the salt off.
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Chad45
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 29, 2017 11:32 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks Barry, I will give that a try. I'm assuming I could take the drum off and spray the brakes directly and let it dry before hitting the highway? Or should I not spray the pads directly? I don't think the trailer was made for saltwater (it's painted steel & no stainless hardware). I thought about just jacking it up and taking both drums off and spraying everyday I'm down. Other than that I don't know what else to do! Other than getting rid of the trailer.

Thanks again for your help.
  
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BarryTurano
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 29, 2017 11:52 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I think taking off the drums is a little extreme. Like I said spray it all down as soon as you pull it out of the water. Salt corrosion will start the minute the air touches the salt water. That is why it is imperative to spray it down as soon as it comes out of the water both ways. You can probably spray the brakes and drums from the inboard side of the trailer, also from the top down.
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PL240
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Location: S.W. Ga/St James Island Fl

PostPosted: Tue Aug 29, 2017 12:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Where I travel towing a boat, with that one I would not be scared to go brakeless. Take into account I have been driving wreckers all my life and is use to not having brakes on what is being towed for the most part.  
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BarryTurano
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 29, 2017 12:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

What is the boat length, and how many axles? Check NCDOT regs. regarding brakes. If you are not required to have them and you are not towing long distances often than you can probably disconnect them the 3400# I take it is boat motor and trailer. Not really that heavy to drag around with a Tundra.
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Chad45
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 29, 2017 12:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yeah I agree I really don't want to get into disassembling the dang wheel system every time. The trip isn't worth that much effort! ha

That weight is that's the whole package. I sometimes forget its behind me on a long drag its so light.
Thanks again for all you guys advice. its much appreciated.
  
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CW66
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 29, 2017 2:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

NORTH CAROLINA
Every semitrailer, trailer, or separate vehicle attached by a drawbar or coupling to a towing vehicle of at least 4,000 lbs., and every house trailer weighing at least 1,000 lbs., shall be equipped with brakes controlled or operated by the driver of the towing vehicle.
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Ken1
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 29, 2017 3:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have surge brakes on my tandem but they are disks and never had a problem other than normal wear and tear. Years ago my friend had surge brakes with drums and he had a hose connection on the trailer that would spray water directly into the drums to rinse them out. I used to fish with him often and never heard if he had the same issues you are talking about. I think that your issues are more related to the fact that your trailer is made for fresh water.  
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GunRunnerNC
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 29, 2017 4:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have surge brakes on my tri axle trailer and when they stick it has been due to the tongue sticking. This was worse when the trailer was new. I greased up where the tongue slide into the trailer and that helped. I also tend to get on the gas hard from a stop and will feel the tongue release. If you were to stop on a downhill grade, that would be the worst case and you may not be pulling hard enough to pull the tongue back out (brakes keep pressure).
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rockhound
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 29, 2017 7:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

get rid of them,Drums are a pain!  
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Chad45
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 30, 2017 5:48 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I agree with everyone. Had the same problem when mine was new. Several mechanics told me the issue was due to the system being drums (cheaper system) and not having the wash out system built on them. Had I known I would have seriously reconsidered buy that boat. But live and learn!  
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surffishn
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 04, 2017 11:11 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

When you park your trailer at home. Before unhooking from truck. Put a chock in front of trailer tire. Then pull forward to stretch the tongue. This separates the pad from the drum. It will dry and not corrode. Also maybe back off the brake adjuster sounds like you may have the brakes adjusted too tight.
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rdnkvet
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 04, 2017 11:58 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've had the brakes lock up (usually one wheel) after sitting for a while. Whenever possible, after putting trailer in salt water, I just stop at the closet/convenient freshwater boat ramp and back trailer in and out letting it sit until all bubbles stop each time and then head home. No problems with brakes since doing this.
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jasonafox
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 04, 2017 11:59 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Have you considered adjusting the linkage on the shoes? I wouldn't think they should be so tight that a little saltwater would cause them to lock up...

Storing your trailer with them disengaged is also a good recommendation, as a previous poster said.
  
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boatman210cc
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 05, 2017 12:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have a 2003 Load EZ Loader trailer and had the same problem that you are describing. I replaced the entire receiver and this has eliminated the brake problems. I went with a Tie-Down" brand (I think this was the brand name). I used to drag it to & back from Wrightsville Beach and the brake hubs were smoking hot!  
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glacierbaze
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 05, 2017 7:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've had brakes lock up while sitting, but never going down the road. Drum backing plates have round holes in them. Locate, or drill one, with no moving parts directly behind it, preferably near the top. Get a plastic plumbing elbow, with hose barbs on it, and with a hammer, drive it one or two barbs deep into the hole. I had to upsize the hole with a drill bit, to use a bigger barb, and get a tight fit. Attach a short length of rubber hose to the barb, and clamp it to the top of your fender. Do this for each wheel. It takes about an hour or so, and cost about $10 to do four wheels.
When I left the ramp, I would stop at the first car wash, and jam the end of the wand into each rubber hose, and flush inside each drum for a minute or so with soap, then go around again with a minute of rinse.
  
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David20675
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 05, 2017 9:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

For some stupid reason breaks don't work for long in salt most are disconnected  
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