RKForte
Posts: 1012
Location: Beaufort Inlet
Tue Aug 11, 2020 12:21 pm
werewolf0711
Posts: 3141
Tue Aug 11, 2020 12:31 pm
SmokinJoe
Posts: 90
Location: Lockwood Folly / Lawndale NC
Tue Aug 11, 2020 2:05 pm
Very nice. I assume you are putting it on your Gamefish 25 and would like to know how it works for you. I have a boat like yours and have been considering that as an option for hovering over bottom spots. Thanks.
DOGKILLR
Posts: 1181
Location: Mooresville, NC and Harkers Island
Wed Aug 12, 2020 6:52 am
Yep, I'm waiting on one too. Got everything ready except the trolling motor. Got the same 25 Gamefish but went with minnkota 87 inch shaft.
SmokinJoe
Posts: 90
Location: Lockwood Folly / Lawndale NC
Wed Aug 12, 2020 8:26 am
If you don't mind sharing, where do you plan to put the batteries? I have limited space in my 2014 and have had trouble fishing wires from the console toward the bow. Seahunt used wire ties and tape along the entire length of the existing bow wiring harness making it impossible to use an existing wire as a pull wire. The chase seems to be filled with foam.
DOGKILLR
Posts: 1181
Location: Mooresville, NC and Harkers Island
Wed Aug 12, 2020 9:14 am
I removed the crapper(which I never use) and hoses except the one from the fresh water pump. (I capped it and pushed it in through the hole it came through.) Figured I could use it to pump the water out for winter storage. I placed a piece of 3/4 Inch starboard big enough to hold (3) battery trays on the floor but used spacers so water wouldn't get trapped under the starboard. I used the existing toilet screw holes to attached the starboard so no new holes were drilled in the floor and the toilet could be reset if I sale. I then made a shelve of equal size that sets on top of batteries as protection but is hinged for easy access. My charger is mounted on top of this shelve. I'm an electrician and can tell you that fishing the wires to the anchor locker was a chore for me. You'll have to remove one of the speakers in the bow and use fiberglass fishing sticks so you can keep them up near the top of the gunnels.
They will get stuck if you don't between the hull and liner. It's definitely a two man job. Push the sticks from the speaker to the front, and pull your wire from the locker. Then push the sticks towards the console and pull the remainder to the console. If you use the macerator hatch in the console you can feel around over the partial bulkhead for the fiberglass rod while someone feeds it. After getting the wires to this location I used the existing hose access to feed the wires to battery location. I've seen where folks close off the macerator access hatch and use it for the battery location by making a starboard shelf. I actually like this area for storing tools, etc. so they don't get wet.
SmokinJoe
Posts: 90
Location: Lockwood Folly / Lawndale NC
Wed Aug 12, 2020 9:33 am
Thanks for sharing the information. I know what you mean about the two man job, I tried replacing the bow speaker wire by myself and wound up cussing the Seahunt engineers for not making a more accessible wire chase. Installing the trolling motor electrical will be a pain, but having that spot lock will be worth it.
RKForte
Posts: 1012
Location: Beaufort Inlet
Wed Aug 12, 2020 10:30 am
SmokinJoe wrote: |
If you don't mind sharing, where do you plan to put the batteries? I have limited space in my 2014 and have had trouble fishing wires from the console toward the bow. Seahunt used wire ties and tape along the entire length of the existing bow wiring harness making it impossible to use an existing wire as a pull wire. The chase seems to be filled with foam. |
I am mounting the batteries on the shelf inside the center console. I removed the hatch on the deck so it is flat and shaped a 3/4 inch sheet of starboard to fit there. My cables are ran from the anchor locker to the deck in the console using the hole where the hoses are for the head. In addition, I have a 4" pie plate that I am using the access the lever for the macerator. I will post some pix tomorrow.
On a side note. FEDEX dropped my trolling motor on the nose cone and damaged it! Even with the Styrofoam protecting it, they managed to break the seal on the armature and the shaft came through the box. Rhodan told me to send it back to them so they can make it right. Great company=Rhodan. FEDEX, you can do better.
_________________
Fish On Forte
2014 Gamefish 25 (Phin Chaser)
https://www.youtube.com/c/fishonforte
https://www.facebook.com/Fish-On-Forte-1664722677109936/
DOGKILLR
Posts: 1181
Location: Mooresville, NC and Harkers Island
Wed Aug 12, 2020 12:01 pm
Sorry Ricky. Didn't mean to hijack your thread, just excited to finally be getting my trolling motor. It is supposed to be here tomorrow and it's the last thing I was waiting on. Can't wait to try it out.
_________________
25 GAMEFISH
SmokinJoe
Posts: 90
Location: Lockwood Folly / Lawndale NC
Wed Aug 12, 2020 3:10 pm
Thank you both! Useful tips all around.
You've got me excited now about the prospect of having an anchor mode trolling motor on my boat.
This will be a very cool setup that will get away from the aggravation of shifting winds and currents while anchored.
I assume you are still keeping your plow anchor and windlass and mounting the motor offset on the bow so your plow anchor does not interfere.
Last edited by SmokinJoe on Thu Aug 13, 2020 9:39 am; edited 2 times in total
RKForte
Posts: 1012
Location: Beaufort Inlet
Wed Aug 12, 2020 3:52 pm
SmokinJoe
Posts: 90
Location: Lockwood Folly / Lawndale NC
Wed Aug 12, 2020 4:06 pm
I hope y'all share some installation pics. That Track Mode will be the trick for working ledges. Looks like I'm going to be spending some money.
fishing-misfit
Posts: 136
Location: Rocky Point NC
Thu Aug 13, 2020 2:04 am
FYI - I use a Cisco fishing TM support for the long shaft TM, very high quality and worth the cost to protect trolling motor along with the fiberglass.
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DOGKILLR
Posts: 1181
Location: Mooresville, NC and Harkers Island
Thu Aug 13, 2020 6:01 am
fishing-misfit wrote: |
FYI - I use a Cisco fishing TM support for the long shaft TM, very high quality and worth the cost to protect trolling motor along with the fiberglass. |
I purchased the Ram claw system. It attaches to the recessed rail and the trolling motor utilizing their claw system so I didn't need to drill any holes. As for the trolling motor mount, I'm using the 9 inch ultra heavy duty Shuttleslide. It allows the whole motor to be within the rubrail of the boat so nothing hangs over until deployed.
Last edited by DOGKILLR on Thu Aug 13, 2020 6:05 am; edited 2 times in total
paynefish
Posts: 633
Location: Beaufort
Thu Aug 13, 2020 6:03 am
Go gett'em Forte!!!
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Seafox 246 Commander
300 Yamaha
Paynefish
PurpleGold
Posts: 751
Location: New Hill, NC
Fri Aug 14, 2020 10:46 am
I got one last May, was great until a few weeks ago I got offshore and the thing went haywire.....
Rhodan shipped me a new steering box and that’s my afternoon project... Hoping it fixes the problem for Sunday flounder fishing.
RKForte
Posts: 1012
Location: Beaufort Inlet
Fri Aug 14, 2020 12:15 pm
PurpleGold wrote: |
I got one last May, was great until a few weeks ago I got offshore and the thing went haywire.....
Rhodan shipped me a new steering box and that’s my afternoon project... Hoping it fixes the problem for Sunday flounder fishing. |
Dang. I had to send mine back the same day bi got it. The Linex covering was cracked around the armature housing and the nose cone was loose. Using my doorbell camera, I found out that FEDEX dropped it at my door so hard that that motor shaft went through the box. Called Rhodan and sent it back the next day. I should have one back by the end of next week. I have heard about the steering box going out and I hope that is your problem so you can get out there and catch'em up.
_________________
Fish On Forte
2014 Gamefish 25 (Phin Chaser)
https://www.youtube.com/c/fishonforte
https://www.facebook.com/Fish-On-Forte-1664722677109936/
PurpleGold
Posts: 751
Location: New Hill, NC
Fri Aug 14, 2020 12:17 pm
Just got done. Was a fairly simple job and they provided good instructions. About to dunk the boat and will report back.
RKForte
Posts: 1012
Location: Beaufort Inlet
Fri Aug 14, 2020 2:16 pm
PurpleGold
Posts: 751
Location: New Hill, NC
Fri Aug 14, 2020 2:34 pm
New steering box and recalibration of everything and it seems to be working again.
One thing to note for all the Rhodan owners out there:
If your unit starts acting crazy, especially while trying to use anchor mode and starts wrapping the cord around the shaft... First thing to do is a manual compass calibration (in the manual). I think that’s all mine needed but I was fishing when it went down so I kept trying to use it. I think that’s what damaged my steering box.
The manual should be clearer about this and I passed that along to Rhodan. I had mine on board, luckily, but didn’t try the manual calibration because it says “recommended” in parenthesis beside the auto calibration instructions.
Also, keep your manual on board.
jdunk
Posts: 402
Mon Aug 17, 2020 11:36 am
I just got mine two weeks ago, cant wait to put it to use...
Bilzo
Posts: 2584
Location: Pittsboro, NC
Mon Aug 17, 2020 11:52 am
wow. your doorbell cam captured the delivery guy dropping it that hard? That's impressive.
RKForte
Posts: 1012
Location: Beaufort Inlet
Mon Aug 17, 2020 12:34 pm
Snorky827
Posts: 10
Tue Aug 18, 2020 6:56 am
SmokinJoe wrote: |
Thanks for sharing the information. I know what you mean about the two man job, I tried replacing the bow speaker wire by myself and wound up cussing the Seahunt engineers for not making a more accessible wire chase. Installing the trolling motor electrical will be a pain, but having that spot lock will be worth it. |
Have you tried using pex plumbing pipe? It's small flexible and you can run wire through it before you fish it. You can leave it there for future wires
SmokinJoe
Posts: 90
Location: Lockwood Folly / Lawndale NC
Tue Aug 18, 2020 7:48 am
There is some foam fill I will have to punch through. I'll check it out. Thanks.
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