Yamaha 150 4 stroke overheat alarm at idle - SaltwaterCentral.Com

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DAVID146
Posts: 278
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Sun Nov 11, 2018 5:15 pm
I have a 150 4 stoke that after idleing for ten minutes the overheat alarm goes off place it in gear and she goes off in a few seconds.
I have replace the pump checked pop it value do I go to the thermostat next I have no problem while running.
  
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Chaos
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Sun Nov 11, 2018 5:41 pm
I would check the thermostat. If it is stuck open it could be you problem. What is idle rpm in and out of gear?  
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DAVID146
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Sun Nov 11, 2018 6:04 pm
Open or closed? the rpm are set at factory level for that motor. I have had it since 2012 prop 600 hours on it I flush it after use I looked at the thermostat it looks good no corrosion but that does not matter. It does make motor go into limp mode but clears up when under way the water seams to stay the same but I think it is running a little warmer than before could I have some passage block somewhere?  
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BarryTurano
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Sun Nov 11, 2018 7:09 pm
Not sure if the 4 strokes have this but the OX66 two strokes had a poppet valve that would clog and cause overheating at idle but would clear up at higher rpms.
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DAVID146
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Sun Nov 11, 2018 7:56 pm
BarryTurano wrote:
Not sure if the 4 strokes have this but the OX66 two strokes had a poppet valve that would clog and cause overheating at idle but would clear up at higher rpms.

I think the pop it is ok.
  
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Chaos
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Tue Nov 13, 2018 8:26 am
Use an infrared thermometer to verify that it is over heating. The sensor is at the top of the exhaust plate ( it has a pink wire coming out of it). If it is not over heating the thermal switch is bad. I have replaced on numerous engines over the years. I know you said the rpms are set at factory that is not a number. Please provide the rpm number. Lots of things can affect the rpm even if you never turned the screws. Just trying to help you out.  
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DAVID146
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Tue Nov 13, 2018 5:01 pm
So I put a new thermostat in and this not fix the issue at first. when the alarm goes off the water is warmer than normal. So we messed with it all morning yesterday in the water and finally it quit getting warm and worked normally so we came to the conclusion that there was something either restricting the thermostat or keeping the pop it open. So when I got home today I took those items off and flushed it well.
I ran it 20 min this morning on the muffs and she never even peed warm at all so maybe I got the issue solved

Thanks everyone
  
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BarryTurano
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Tue Nov 13, 2018 5:29 pm
Happy that it all worked out. Could have been something as small as a grain of sand.
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STICK-SLINGER
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Wed Nov 14, 2018 8:37 am
Just throw this out there in case someone is worried about corrosion.. I use salt away until I get done with the jug and then I mix carwash with vinegar 1/2 and 1/2.. 50% each. I wash the boat with this and run it through the engine as well. the vinegar gets all the salt and I think it helps overall.
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DAVID146
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Sun Mar 24, 2019 4:18 pm
Chaos wrote:
Use an infrared thermometer to verify that it is over heating. The sensor is at the top of the exhaust plate ( it has a pink wire coming out of it). If it is not over heating the thermal switch is bad. I have replaced on numerous engines over the years. I know you said the rpms are set at factory that is not a number. Please provide the rpm number. Lots of things can affect the rpm even if you never turned the screws. Just trying to help you out.

So Iím still having this issue, idols about 600 only alarms when in the water and at idol, may only do it once. A day I have had the thermal all over it and reads about 160 at various points. It will not alarm on the muffs. Could I have a thermostat stick or should I lean more to the sensor I have flushed this thing everway I know how.
Thanks
  
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Chaos
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Sun Mar 24, 2019 5:58 pm
Your rpm should be in the 700 range. this can make a big difference in the water supply. Also, I have seen where people have replaced the impeller without replacing the cup and wear plate even thought there were grooves in it. it makes a big difference. I have also seen where the impeller was damaged on installation so the problem still existed.  
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Chaos
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Sun Mar 24, 2019 5:59 pm
try rpms first them go back to the water pump.  
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DAVID146
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Sun Mar 24, 2019 8:01 pm
Everything on the pump is fine what perplexes me is that it does not do it consistently. Iím the water it idle for 20 min no issue ran a few miles come off plan alarm went off then no issues the rest of the day. Could I have some cooling veins pulg that Iím not seeing are they that small and if thatís so why not cause trouble on muffs. Could it be a sticking new thermostat tech is unsure himself make me think the sensor is acting up.  
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Chaos
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Mon Mar 25, 2019 2:55 am
Sounds like it is the low oil pressure alarm. Are you 100 percent sure it is the water temp?  
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DAVID146
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Mon Mar 25, 2019 6:08 am
Yes I have lights that tell what it is. All this started when it sucked sand up.  
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AboutTime2Fish
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Fri Mar 29, 2019 7:11 pm
Have someone watch the primer bulb when you come off plane. See if it collapses.
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CW66
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Fri Mar 29, 2019 7:29 pm
I had a sensor go bad and throw me into Limp mode, but mine was when i ran over 4500 rpms for more than 3 min.
Dale at Carolina Outboards in Hampstead found and fixed the problem when I explained the symptoms and result.
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mrjaco
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Wed Oct 02, 2019 11:43 pm
I have a 150 4 stoke that after idleing for ten minutes the overheat alarm goes off place it in gear and she goes off in a few seconds.

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DAVID146
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Thu Oct 03, 2019 8:15 pm
mrjaco wrote:
I have a 150 4 stoke that after idleing for ten minutes the overheat alarm goes off place it in gear and she goes off in a few seconds.

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So after 6 months I finally figured mine out..

1. Took the thermostat out
2. Took lower unit off
3. Flushed water through ever port I could find on the engine there are many
4. New pump with housing

Works great

What I think happened is a piece of silicone broke loose off the pump housing about the size of my thumb and was blocking something up intermittently..

No issue now
  
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trout
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Sun Oct 13, 2019 1:49 pm
If you are only flushing with the hose pipe connection it does not go by the thermostat. You should flush with earmuffs once in a while and let it run long enough to get up to temp and clear the salt out of the top end.  
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waterbound
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Location: Carolina Beach
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Mon Jun 08, 2020 8:17 am
This is a little late I know, but I just had a friend go through this with the same symptoms and results. Come to find out on some models Yamaha overheat sensor also tells you when you have water in your fuel. Sounds crazy to me but confirmed by a authorized service center. if this happens again check your fuel.  
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Titan
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Mon Jun 08, 2020 8:45 am
waterbound wrote:
This is a little late I know, but I just had a friend go through this with the same symptoms and results. Come to find out on some models Yamaha overheat sensor also tells you when you have water in your fuel. Sounds crazy to me but confirmed by a authorized service center. if this happens again check your fuel.


My alarm went off a few times in the past and the first thing I checked was the fuel filter cup. Sure enough it had water in it. I replaced the filter and the fuel water separator about 4 times before I found out how I was getting water in my tank. The Sending unit had a bad seal on it. The alarm will only go off at idle, not when the boat is in gear. Try checking the fuel filter cup just to make sure there is no water in it. Just donít forget to disconnect the sensor wire before you unscrew the cap so the wire does not get twisted.
  
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Ricochet
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Mon Jun 22, 2020 9:21 am
I do a lot of slow (idle) trolling for Rockfish. On a trip a last fall, after cruising upriver from marina 2-3 miles and then idle trolling, the overheat horn sounded. I restarted and back flushed (reversed) and then took my raw water hose nozzle and shot it up the tell-tale outlet which, was flowing but, I just thought it might help to pressurize the rest of the system upstream in case there was a temporary clog. After doing this, it didnít sound again, and I continued tolling for a few hours and ran back with no further issue. The next time I took it out, same sequence of events occurred, except it sounded a total of three times with me shutting off and immediately restarting. After the third time, I took off the motor cover and while looking around found the starboard solenoid control valve at the uppermost section of the head unplugged so, I plugged it back and assumed I had found the problem. Motor did perform for several hours after this with no further overheat issues. Keep in mind, water temp (42-44 degrees).

Took boat out again on Friday (12/27) and had the same scenario. Fishing exact same part of river. Fast trolled for 30 minutes then slowed down and within 5 minutes alarm went off. This time it kept triggering so, I hooked up my raw water hose to the screw-on flush valve using the sprayer end and propping it open. I then used the power switch to the raw water pump and cooled the motor by forcing water through. With the motor running the tell-tale water was too hot to touch at first but, within a few minutes was cooled down. This is how I finished the day.

Since then, I have flushed warm engine with Salt-Off for three capfuls (20 minutes total). Changed out the water pump impeller. Did sea trial and horn sounded on similar conditions (ran out then idled). Ran full speed to marina (no horn) and within 5 minutes in marina at idle, horn sounded. The next day, I pulled and inspected the Pop-it Valve, it was not corroded and seemed to have good tension and moved freely so, I put it back. I removed the upper zinc anodes from Port and Starboard engine block and, though they were crudded up some, the marina repair guy said that they had between 70-85% of their material to go and that, the fact that they pulled out without too much of a fight and werenít heavily gunked up, they looked good to him. I took flashlight and peered into their mounting holes and inside surfaces looked like a sharkís skin. No chunks or build-up. After doing that, I took the covers off thermostats enough to see that they looked old. Center pin on thin metal round doors were corroded and the marina guy said they should be replaced as getting them out to test would ruin the rubber seals and the units so, they ordered new OEM thermostats and we installed them next. I sea trialed again with the new thermostats and no issue idle or otherwise.
Fast forward the tape to this past 30 days. I ran a Ĺ hour out to Bay to chum for cobia. It was rough so we set up close in and fished for about an hour. The winds and seas calmed, and we decided to move further out on the bar. Started motor while getting the anchor retrieved and bam, about the time I could get back to the helm, the horn sounded. I restarted and we moved. Sat for another hour or two and when we picked up to leave, same thing, by the time I got the anchor up and stowed and back to the help, the horn sounded.

I had repair guy (I call him that as he is self-taught and not factory trained) drop the lower unit to re-inspect the impeller, which did have a vane reversed from previous replacement so, we put in a new one housing good. He then ran a camera up the exhaust manifold and, though there is some sporadic pitting there is only really one place that looks suspicious, at the top edge where the gasket is between the manifold and the engine meet, he says he can see some of the gasket material. Says, he has seen much worse without overheat issue. OK, so with a properly installed impeller, this past Saturday I went out and ran around the river and had the engine idle for 20-30 minutes a couple times while I fiddled with the Electronics. No problem. So, I start to gain some confidence that the impeller was the issue. Came back to marina, idled the engine for 10 minutes, no issue. With that I took family out to Bay yesterday to chum for cobia. After 3 hours we picked up and I started engine and retrieved anchor. Just as I reached the helm to motor home the horn sounded!!! Less than 3 minutes of idle after 3 hours of sitting!!!
At this point, since everybody says, ďItís only overheating at idle???Ē and ďhmmmmm, thatís weirdĒ it makes me sense the thermostats or the impeller are not the problem. I still think it possible the pop-it value is not seating properly after on long runs but, should the engine be able to get hot enough to sound alarm with 70-degree water in 3-5 minutes of just idling??? I am not wishing bad things to happen here, just worried that, this is an í06 250 HP motor, itís going to end up being corrosion of the exhaust manifold!!!

My next move is to have the repair guy separate the engine from the exhaust manifold and closely inspect the pitting and the areas we saw on the scope. I have found a process (product used to seal pinhole leaks in fuel tanks) that I believe can be applied to the manifold to seal and protect the surfaces for years to come but, still I am not confident it is indeed the problem and not ready to pull the trigger on the 5 hours of labor.

Oh, while Iíve got your attention, my habit has always been to idle the engine on return to allow it to cool as I have seen way too many peeps make a long run only to immediately shut off their engine at the dock. Just seems unwise to me! Anyway, I could have sworn I recall doing this and the water that came out of the tell-tale was warm to the touch. I would also hook the hose to the cap to flush the engine and water would eventually come out of the tell-tale and I would test the temperature with my bare hand until it cooled down before I would either shut off the engine or remove the flush hose. Since having these issues, I have noticed that the tell-tale temperature is never warm and was even told by someone that should know, that ďthe tell-tale water on Yamahasí doesnít indicate engine temperature???Ē Am I mistaken about this or should it, either when the engine is idling on its own or when water is being run into the flushing inlet as described, indicate engine temperature? I cannot help thinking my memory is correct and this condition is where I have something screwed up!!!
  
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harrywatson30
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Wed Jul 22, 2020 1:12 am
I have a new motor only done 115 hours and it has the overheat alarm coming on when idling for about five minutes. This has only started since the 100 hour service when the water pump impeller was replaced. The motor appears to be pumping water a steady stream from the tell tale hole. Engine Model is F150XB.
The engine temperature gauge is sitting at mid range.
As suggestions as to what could be the cause would be appreciated.

harrywatson30
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Bilzo
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Location: Pittsboro, NC
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Wed Jul 22, 2020 8:24 am
Quote:
Just throw this out there in case someone is worried about corrosion.. I use salt away until I get done with the jug and then I mix carwash with vinegar 1/2 and 1/2.. 50% each. I wash the boat with this and run it through the engine as well. the vinegar gets all the salt and I think it helps overall.


Chemist here - I would not put the vinegar in there for a couple reasons.
1) Salt (sodium chloride) is more soluble in plain water than it is in acetic acid (what vinegar is, although a very much less concentrated version). Roughly 30X more soluble in water than a pure solution of acetic acid. Bear in mind, your household vinegar is probably 5-6% acetic acid in water, so nothing near fully concentrated, but the basic point is - you're not gaining anything, and probably only hurting it. Factor that in with whatever else is in your carwash solution and you're probably cutting the salt solubility even more. Water (the hotter the better) is pretty much the best solvent for salt and the more other junk you put in with your water, the more competition you have for solvation of the residual salt.

2) Acetic Acid is a weak acid. For comparison, something like hydrochloric is a strong acid. The difference? It's the release of positively charged Hydrogen atoms (protons, H+) that make acid what it is (bases release negatively charged hydroxide ions, OH-). In something like hydrochloric (HCl) when you put it into solution, it completely separates into H+ and Cl-. Those H+ protons are hell on metal and hasten corrosion. That's why you never see acids sold in metal containers (always glass or plastic) - they eat right through them. For acetic acid its CH3COOH. Some of the molecules go to CH3COO- / H+ but some stay wholly intact (there's an equilibrium). So there's fewer of them around, but they're still there and I'd think every little bit hurts. Basically - it's not as bad as if you were dumping hydrochloric acid in, but over time, it will add up.

So if you wanted to put that on your fiberglass or windshield or your vinyl on deck, I think that'd be fine. But under no circumstances would I wipe down the chrome or flush my motor out with that, or worse, flush out the motor without a final pure water rinse.
  
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Yamaha 150 4 stroke overheat alarm at idle - SaltwaterCentral.Com